If there’s a festivity that is full of religiosity, devotion and tradition, that’s the Spanish Holy Week in Seville. For one week, the passion, death and resurrection of Christ is represented and commemorated. 70 brotherhoods go out in procession through the streets of the city, and 60 of them do it until they reach the Seville Cathedral. Its importance not only covers Seville and Spain, but it already crosses borders: that’s why, since 1980, it’s considered an International Tourist Interest Festivity.
Brotherhoods (“hermandades”) go out in procession as proof of worship. These processions are regulated by the General Council of Brotherhoods of Seville (Consejo General de Hermandades y Cofradías de Sevilla), which makes the necessary procedures so that the carreras oficiales (the routes that the pasos make) are carried out. These routes begin at Plaza de la Campana, continue along Sierpes street and continue through Plaza de San Francisco and Avenida de la Constitución to end at the Seville Cathedral. Once there, they enter through the Puerta de San Miguel and go out through the Puerta de Palos.
How did it all start?
The origin of the brotherhoods dates back to the Middle Ages, although since the sixteenth century they have more presence outside the temples. The first processions went out to the closest churches, although it was later established that the brotherhoods would go out in procession to the Seville Cathedral, and those of Triana would go to the Church of Santa Ana. It was in 1830 when the Hermandad de la O, from Triana, crossed the bridge to continue in procession to the Seville Cathedral.
Not everything has been a bed of roses for the Easter holiday in Seville (and in Spain), especially during the nineteenth century due to the French invasion, the Spanish confiscation or the Revolution of 1868. During this century a large number of religious temples were closed or destroyed .
It’s at the end of the 19th century when the brotherhoods resurface again, thanks to the Spanish Bourbon restoration, and they begin to be valued as a tourist attraction that benefits the city in general and its economy in particular.
Things twisted again in the twentieth century while the Second Spanish Republic ruled. Brotherhoods decided not to go out in procession to avoid confrontations. However, the Hermandad de la Estrella was the only one who did it, and the Virgin’s paso was shot for it. Due to the fact of not complying with the decision of not going out in procession, the Hermandad de la Estrella is also known as La Valiente (the Brave one).
After the success of the Spanish Confederation of Autonomous Rights (CEDA) in 1934, brotherhoods go out in procession without problems. Over the years, they grow in importance and in number.
How do they organise?
Now, let’s learn a little more about the processions. The cruz de guía (literally, “guide cross”) starts the processions, accompanied by a couple of Nazarenes carrying lanterns. Behind them, the procession of Nazarenes starts, who carry crosses on their backs as a penance. The pasos (moveable floats of wood with religious images on top) are carried by the costaleros, who make a great effort to carry them to the rhythm of the band. The tunics of the Nazarenes vary according to the brotherhood to which they belong.
We must not forget a fundamental element of the Sevillian Holy Week: music. The great majority of brotherhoods have music bands that are placed at the end of the pasos and play processional pieces. However, the hermandades de silencio (“brotherhoods of silence”) are only accompanied by chapel music or no music at all, which is very impressive.
Días de Pasión
The Spanish Holy Week of Seville is divided into the following Passion Days: Friday of Sorrows (first day in which Nazarenes go out in procession), Saturday of Passion, Palm Sunday (this day is the starting signal for Holy Week), Monday of Holy Week (the pasos evoke moments of the life of Jesus), Tuesday and Wednesday of Holy Week (the pasos evoke different moments of the last moments of Jesus), Holy Thursday (when Jesus lived the Last Supper, was betrayed by Judas Iscariot and was arrested), La Madrugá (the night of Holy Thursday to Good Friday, when Jesus had the trial before Pontius Pilate, is flagellated, the crown of thorns is placed on him, he is condemned to death and walks with the cross on his back towards Calvary, where he would be crucified), Good Friday (they commemorate the Passion and death of Jesus, after which he is taken off the cross and taken to the tomb), Holy Saturday (day on which the Resurrection is expected) and Easter Sunday (when the resurrection of Jesus and his exit from the sepulcher takes place).
Devotion and more
The Holy Week of Seville is all this and more: devotion, solemnity, smell of incense and curiosity mixed with respect.
Cuisine also has its important role during these days: torrijas con miel (fried slices of bread with honey), pestiños (honey fritters) and vigil chickpea stew (so called because meat is not added and, according to the Catholic tradition, on Good Fridays eating meat is not allowed) are very typical.
If you want to see Seville like you have never done before, what are you waiting for? Spanish Holy Week in Seville should be lived at least once in a lifetime.